Stainless vs aluminum
Weight, rust, strength, looks and price side by side, so you can pick the right metal for your part in a minute.
Side by side.
| Stainless steel | Aluminum | |
|---|---|---|
| Weight | Heavy, about 3× aluminum | Light, about a third of steel |
| Rust | Doesn't rust in normal use; 316 for salt | Doesn't rust; can dull to grey outdoors |
| Stiffness | Stiffer at the same thickness | Bends more easily; go a size thicker for the same feel |
| Looks | Brushed or polished metal | Light silver; takes anodizing or powder coat |
| Price | Higher | Usually lower than stainless |
| Magnetic | Mostly not (304 and 316) | No |
Choose stainless when.
- It touches food, water or chemicals.
- It has to look good as bare metal for years.
- It sits near salt water or a pool (choose 316).
- You want the stiffest part at a given thickness.
Choose aluminum when.
- Weight matters: trailers, boats' trim, enclosures you carry, signs on a wall.
- You want a lower price than stainless.
- It will be painted or powder coated anyway.
Grade matters for bending: 5052 aluminum bends nicely, while 6061 can crack in a tight bend. If your part bends, choose 5052 unless your drawing says otherwise.
Mixing the two.
When stainless and aluminum touch outdoors, the aluminum can corrode where they meet. Use a plastic washer or a coating between them, or use fasteners that match the part.
Carrying weight or people? We make parts exactly to your drawing, but we don't give strength or building-code advice. For anything structural, have an engineer specify the material and thickness.
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